Ethiopia Changed My Life: My Honest Experience Living and Traveling in Ethiopia
I think Ethiopia has changed my life.
That sounds dramatic, but after spending several weeks travelling around the country, I genuinely feel different from when I arrived.
When I booked this trip, I expected good coffee, some interesting history, and a few nice churches. What I didn’t expect was to make more friends in a couple of weeks than I have in many countries I’ve visited. I didn’t expect to sit in people’s homes while they roasted coffee beans from scratch. I didn’t expect to walk through parts of Addis Ababa that looked like a mini version of Dubai. And I definitely didn’t expect to find myself eating raw beef in someone’s living room.
Yet somehow, that’s exactly what happened.
So this article is my honest opinion about Ethiopia. Not the polished tourist brochure version. Just my genuine thoughts after travelling through Addis Ababa, Lalibela and southern Ethiopia.
The good.
The bad.
The weird.
And why I think Ethiopia is one of the most underrated countries in Africa.
Thousands gather for Christmas in Addis Ababa
The People Made This Trip Special
The biggest surprise for me wasn’t the churches.
It wasn’t the architecture.
It wasn’t even the coffee.
It was the people.
I’ve lived in Tanzania for years, so naturally I compare countries in East Africa. Tanzanians are famously relaxed people. Sometimes so relaxed that getting anything done can take forever.
Ethiopians are different.
They’re still laid back and friendly, but they seem more energetic at the same time. There’s a confidence about them that I noticed almost immediately.
In just two or three weeks, I made more friends here than I have in many countries where I’ve spent months.
One local guy I met started showing me around Addis Ababa. We talked about architecture, city development, culture and daily life. Before long we’d become good friends.
As somebody who is naturally quite introverted, that doesn’t happen very often.
Normally when I travel, I tend to keep to myself. I spent three weeks in Brazil once and hardly spoke to anybody. Ethiopia was the complete opposite.
People invite you for coffee.
They invite you into their homes.
They want to know where you’re from.
They want to show you their country.
And that warmth completely changed my experience of travelling here.
Dessanetech Tribe in Omo Valley, Wouth Ethiopia
Ethiopia Feels Completely Different From The Rest of Africa
One thing that struck me almost immediately was how different Ethiopia feels compared to other African countries I’ve visited.
The people look different.
The language sounds different.
The religion is different.
The food is different.
The architecture is different.
Even the atmosphere feels different.
I’ve spent years living in Tanzania, but crossing into Ethiopia felt like entering a completely different world.
Part of that comes from Ethiopia’s unique history. The country maintained its independence while much of Africa was colonised, and because of that it has preserved a huge amount of its cultural identity.
You can feel it everywhere.
Ancient traditions.
Historic churches.
Traditional clothing.
Orthodox Christianity.
Coffee ceremonies.
Local customs.
This isn’t a country trying to imitate anyone else.
It feels completely comfortable being itself.
Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia
Ethiopian Coffee Culture Blew My Mind
I thought I understood coffee before visiting Ethiopia.
Turns out I didn’t.
Back home, coffee usually means grabbing something from a café, drinking it while checking emails, and moving on with your day.
In Ethiopia, coffee is an event.
People invite you into their home.
They roast the beans themselves.
They burn incense while preparing it.
Everyone sits together.
Everyone talks.
Nobody is in a rush.
The first time I experienced a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, I couldn’t believe how much effort went into every cup.
The beans aren’t pre-roasted.
They’re washed.
Roasted in a pan.
Ground by hand.
Then brewed fresh.
Watching somebody go through that entire process makes you realise how industrialised coffee has become elsewhere in the world.
This felt authentic.
This felt personal.
This felt like coffee culture in its purest form.
It’s no surprise Ethiopia is regarded as the birthplace of coffee.
After experiencing it for myself, I completely understand why.
Orthodox Christianity Left A Big Impression On Me
Religion plays a huge role in Ethiopian society.
Everywhere you go, you see people wearing crosses around their necks. Churches are scattered throughout the cities and villages, and faith remains an important part of daily life.
Before visiting Ethiopia, I didn’t know much about Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity.
After seeing it firsthand, I came away with a huge amount of respect for it.
The traditions are beautiful.
The churches are beautiful.
The devotion is remarkable.
You can tell these traditions have deep roots stretching back centuries.
For somebody interested in culture and history, it was fascinating to observe.
Christmas in Addis Ababa
Visiting Lalibela Was A Life-Changing Experience
The highlight of my entire trip was visiting Lalibela.
I’ve travelled to many countries and seen many famous landmarks, but Lalibela genuinely felt different.
The famous rock-hewn churches are unlike anything else I’ve ever encountered.
Standing there and seeing entire churches carved directly into the rock is difficult to comprehend.
It’s not just the architecture that’s impressive.
It’s the atmosphere.
The history.
The spirituality.
The people praying inside.
The sense that these places still matter deeply to those who visit them.
Very few destinations have affected me emotionally the way Lalibela did.
It’s one of those places that stays with you long after you’ve left.
St George Church in Lalibela
My Honest Opinion About Ethiopian Food
This is probably where I’ll upset some people.
My feelings about Ethiopian food are mixed.
Some of it I enjoyed.
Some of it wasn’t really for me.
The most famous Ethiopian food is Injera.
If you’ve never seen it before, it’s a large fermented flatbread made from teff flour that acts as both the plate and the utensil.
Everything gets served on top of it.
People tear pieces off and use their hands to eat the food.
Culturally, I think it’s fantastic.
It’s social.
It’s communal.
It’s unique.
Personally though, I’m not a huge fan.
I prefer using a knife and fork.
I prefer rice.
I prefer not getting my hands covered in sauce while eating.
Maybe that makes me a snob, but that’s just my honest opinion.
The flavour is fine.
The experience is interesting.
I just never fell in love with it the way many visitors seem to.
Eating fish near the Omo River
Ethiopia’s Obsession With Injera
Injera
One thing that surprised me was just how much Injera people eat.
Breakfast.
Lunch.
Dinner.
It seems to appear everywhere.
Sometimes I’d sit down expecting a completely different meal and somehow Injera would still arrive on the table.
There were moments where I started wondering if anything in Ethiopia existed that wasn’t wrapped, served or accompanied by Injera.
The locals love it.
I respected the tradition.
But by the end of my trip, I was definitely craving something different.
The Great Ethiopian Meat Problem
This might be controversial, but I struggled with the meat situation in Ethiopia.
Not because there isn’t meat.
There is.
But I found it surprisingly difficult to find large portions of quality meat.
Many dishes contained small pieces mixed into stews.
I wanted a proper steak.
A large piece of meat.
Something substantial.
After several days travelling in southern Ethiopia, I became so desperate for protein that I ended up visiting a butcher and having meat cooked specifically for me.
When I finally returned to Addis Ababa, I was so deprived that I ordered an entire chicken at a restaurant.
The whole thing.
I wasn’t messing around anymore.
Lamb with rosemary
Eating Raw Meat For The First Time
One of the most memorable food experiences happened when I visited someone’s home.
Everyone was gathered around a plate.
There was Injera around the edge.
And in the middle sat a huge pile of raw beef.
Not rare.
Not medium rare.
Raw.
People were slicing pieces off, dipping them into a butter-based sauce, and eating them.
Eventually I tried some.
Honestly?
It wasn’t terrible.
The sauce helped.
But it’s definitely not something I’d choose every day.
Still, experiences like that are part of travelling.
Sometimes you have to step outside your comfort zone.
Raw red meat
Addis Ababa’s Development Surprised Me
As an architect, I naturally pay attention to cities.
Buildings.
Roads.
Infrastructure.
Public spaces.
Urban planning.
And Addis Ababa genuinely surprised me.
There are parts of the city that feel surprisingly modern.
Some areas almost reminded me of Dubai.
You can clearly see significant investment taking place.
There are modern towers.
Large developments.
Public parks.
Landscaped areas.
Street lighting.
Shopping centres.
New roads.
And infrastructure projects happening across the city.
It’s clear that Ethiopia wants to modernise and present a strong image of itself to visitors.
Addis Ababa Library
The Tallest Building In East Africa
One thing I wasn’t expecting was to see the tallest building in East Africa dominating the skyline.
At night it lights up dramatically.
Combined with nearby fountains, parks and public spaces, it creates a surprisingly impressive urban environment.
When I was younger, I travelled to see poverty and rough neighbourhoods.
Now I’m more interested in seeing how countries develop and improve.
Addis Ababa gave me exactly that.
It showed me a side of Africa that many international visitors never see.
Tallest Building in East Africa, Bank Of Ethiopia
Is Ethiopia Safe?
Before visiting, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect regarding safety.
Thankfully, my experience was overwhelmingly positive.
I walked around Addis Ababa during the day.
I walked around at night.
I explored both wealthy and poorer areas.
Generally speaking, I felt safe.
In fact, I often felt less intimidated than I did in parts of Nairobi.
That doesn’t mean crime doesn’t exist.
Petty theft happens.
Pickpocketing happens.
Like any city, you need to stay aware of your surroundings.
But overall, I found Ethiopia safer than many people imagine.
Hanging out with Hamma Tribe
The Only Scam I Encountered
I only encountered one significant scam attempt.
Shortly after arriving, a hotel shuttle driver began acting unusually friendly.
Later he suggested visiting certain bars filled with “students.”
Curiosity got the better of me and I eventually visited one of the bars.
Almost immediately the owner started encouraging me to buy expensive drinks for girls in a VIP section.
The prices were massively inflated.
The whole setup felt designed to separate tourists from their money.
Thankfully it was obvious enough that I left without any problems.
Apart from that experience, I found most people genuine and honest.
Addis Ababa Is Colder Than You Think
One thing many travellers don’t realise is how cold Addis Ababa can be.
I expected warm African weather.
Instead I found myself wearing hoodies and jumpers most mornings and evenings.
Northern Ethiopia was even colder.
Southern Ethiopia was much warmer and more comfortable.
But Addis Ababa’s high elevation creates a climate that surprises many visitors.
If you’re planning a trip, don’t assume you’ll be wearing shorts all day.
Bring something warm.
You’ll probably need it.
High Altitude Addis Ababa
The Most Annoying Thing About Ethiopia
Without question, the biggest frustration of my entire trip was the ATM system.
Many machines only allow surprisingly small withdrawals.
Sometimes the equivalent of around $30.
Even the better machines often limited withdrawals to around $60.
This became ridiculous when larger payments were required.
At one point I needed to pay a guide around $900.
That meant multiple withdrawals, huge stacks of cash, and carrying piles of banknotes around with me.
It wasn’t dangerous.
Just incredibly inconvenient.
Oddly enough, that was probably my biggest complaint about the entire country.
Addis Ababa Nightlife Is Hidden
Nightlife in Addis Ababa confused me at first.
Not because it doesn’t exist.
Because it’s hidden.
Many clubs are tucked away behind doors, inside buildings, or in places you’d never discover without local knowledge.
For several nights I wandered around trying to find where everyone was.
The answer?
They don’t come out until very late.
Sometimes midnight.
Sometimes later.
The main nightlife area is Bole, where you’ll find bars, lounges and clubs spread throughout the neighbourhood.
Once a local showed me where everything was, the nightlife suddenly made much more sense.
The Infamous Havana Club in Addis
Ethiopia Loves VIP Culture
One thing I noticed in Addis nightlife was the obsession with VIP tables.
Many clubs reserve almost every table for customers buying expensive bottles.
If you’re not buying a bottle of whisky, you’re often directed towards the bar area instead.
It felt even stronger than what I’ve seen in Tanzania.
Personally, I found it slightly excessive.
But clearly plenty of people enjoy it because the clubs continue operating that way.
Southern Ethiopia Opened My Mind
Towards the end of my journey, I travelled south and visited tribal communities.
Combined with my trip to Lalibela, this ended up being one of the most important experiences of the entire journey.
Seeing completely different ways of living.
Different traditions.
Different priorities.
Different perspectives on life.
It made me question assumptions I didn’t even realise I had.
Travel is often described as broadening your horizons.
Southern Ethiopia genuinely did that for me.
Merci Tribe in Omo Valley
Would I Return To Ethiopia?
Absolutely.
I’ve only scratched the surface.
I’ve visited Addis Ababa.
I’ve visited Lalibela.
I’ve travelled south.
But there are still many places I haven’t seen.
More cities.
More landscapes.
More history.
More culture.
This feels like a country you could return to multiple times and still discover something new.
Colourful Tribe in Omo Valley
Final Thoughts: Ethiopia Changed My Life
Before arriving, I expected Ethiopia to be interesting.
I didn’t expect it to change my perspective.
The people surprised me.
The coffee culture amazed me.
Lalibela moved me.
The tribes in the south opened my mind.
The development of Addis Ababa impressed me.
Even the things I didn’t love became memorable parts of the experience.
Ethiopia isn’t perfect.
No country is.
But it is authentic.
It is unique.
And it is one of the most fascinating countries I’ve ever visited.
If you’re considering visiting Ethiopia, my advice is simple:
Go.
Keep an open mind.
Talk to people.
Drink the coffee.
Visit Lalibela.
Travel south if you can.
And allow the country to surprise you the same way it surprised me.
At Bull Jumping Ceremony
✅ Related Ethiopia Blogs:
Mursi Tribe Ethiopia: The Lip Plate Tradition & Vanishing Rituals
Kara Tribe Ethiopia: Tobacco, Face Paint & Village Life
Nyangatom Tribe Ethiopia: Life in the Omo Valley
UNESCO: Omo Valley World Heritage Site
Tallest Building In East Africa
Hamar Tribe Ethiopia: The Brutal Bull Jumping Ceremony
Nyangatom Tribe Ethiopia: Life in the Omo Valley
Russell M. Henderson is a practicing RIBA Chartered Architect based in Tanzania, East Africa.
Russell (Architect Russell) also makes videos on YouTube , TikTok Instagram & Skillshare sharing thoughtful, honest and pragmatic knowledge while working and living abroad.
Architect Russell Uncensored is podcast also available on YouTube, talking about an architect’s life unfiltered.